Friday, 30 March 2012

Makeup Mop Up [iTsArticles]


That eyeliner has been sitting on your dresser for two years. But you just can't let it go. A trip to the store for a reload is tedious and potentially costly, and nothing else gives you that perfect cat's-eye. You know it's wrong, but you love it. Besides, if you've already spent a fortune on your foundation or shadow, do you really have to throw it out after just a few months? Yeah, yeah ... old make-up is bad for you, but just how bad?
As it turns out, there can be some nasty, even dangerous consequences when some types of make-up have exhausted their shelf life, but that doesn't mean you can't make it last a little longer.

To Preserve & Protect:

Three months. That's the general throw-out rule for eyeliners and mascaras. They touch the sensitive and damp inner eyelid, which is susceptible to infection. Pencil liner could last you a bit longer, says to Michelle Keck, makeup artist on ABC's "Private Practice." But nothing is fool-proof without a few precautions.
"As a makeup artist at work, I use alcohol spray on pencil liners, and then I shave them down, then I spray them again," Keck said, noting that such extreme care and sanitary practices are essential when working on set with so many different people.
A meticulous cleaning technique is a good idea for anyone using pencils, makeup artist or not. Keck adds that the consistency of the pencil plays a part, too, in how well it may age and safely last.

"I've kept pencils up to a year," she said. "But after that time, they may lose their creaminess and dry out. 
The creamier it was to begin with, the shorter lifespan it has." But Keck does not take any chances.

"Mascara goes off very quickly anyway, but anytime somebody has an irritation in their eye of any kind, I recommended they throw away all of their eye makeup."
But how can you tell it's gone bad? Just like that milk in the fridge, it needs to pass the smell test.
"I don't put dates on my makeup. I really use my nose more than anything," Keck said. "And if a product is starting to smell off or dries out, then I know it's time for it to go, whether or not it seems unsanitary to use anymore.

"With foundation, you'll notice either an off smell or the formula begins to separate when it's getting old. 
When you shake it up, it doesn't really mix well."
Keck recommends keeping foundation for six months to a year, depending on how you use and apply it. 
Pump dispensers can extend a foundation's lifespan.

Indeed, beyond knowing if it's bad, you should also try to control when it goes bad. Those pump dispensers are one trick. And palettes are a handy way of drawing out the life of creamy products. Keck decants cream blush into a palette, and for makeup such as cream shadows and cake eyeliner, the palette allows the use of clean brushes.

"If you have eyeliner in a pot, scoop a little bit out and put it on a palette," Keck advised. "Then use a brush. Never double-dip a brush from your eye back into the product."

Don't use your fingers, though. As manicured as they may be, those digits can be dirty. And once exposed to bacteria, the product will start to degrade more quickly. You can always use clean fingers to blend once the product is applied to the skin. And once you've dispensed the foundation from the bottle, using your fingers can be an economical move, allowing you to use the product sparingly.

"When you use a sponge or brush, they soak up the product, and some of it goes to waste, whereas using your fingers doesn't waste any of the foundation," Keck added. If you do use a sponge, though, "You should be using a new one every time," she said. "Most people don't because they figure, 'Oh, it's my own face.'"

Dry products such as pressed powder or powder blush aren't quite as big a concern. You can get a year out of them, notes Keck, particularly if you're not sharing. Their age may not be as obvious, though. Expiration may show its face simply when the products don't blend well or stop performing. Still, Keck says, of all makeup, powder products last the longest.

What's the Damage?

If you choose to ignore all the advice in pursuit of your cat's-eye, can it be that bad? Actually it can.
"Old makeup can become a breeding ground for bacteria," said Dr. Stuart Kaplan, a Beverly Hills-based dermatologist.
"[It] may cause your skin to become red, itchy, swollenor even develop an infection," said Kaplan. "This is especially true for your eyelids, which have thinner and more sensitive skin." Pustules, anyone?
Many products make claims of organic or natural qualities, which could lead you to think you're safer, longer. But think again.

"Your skin may love [natural ingredients], but so do bacteria," Kaplan said.
If you do have a breakout, you don't necessarily need to panic. Sometimes it's just allergies. Other times, it's worse. Either way, it's difficult for you to tell the difference.

"For any reaction, it is always best to consult your dermatologist," Kaplan advised. "However, if you see pus, crusting or oozing, it suggests you have a bacterial infection. Redness and swelling can be seen with either an allergic reaction or an early bacterial infection, but since the treatments are different, you must get a professional diagnosis."
If you're unsure if something is safe, Kaplan suggests doing a skin test before putting makeup on your face.

"Each person can have a different reaction to makeup," he said. "If you have sensitive skin, apply a small sample on your inner arm for a few days. Remember though, in particularly sensitive cases, even if your inner arm does not react, your face or eyelids can still become irritated, since the skin there is even more sensitive."

With this in mind, it's best to err on the side of caution with eye products in particular. If you're in any doubt, throw it out. Stick to the three-month rule for liquid eyeliner and mascara, and sterilize and sharpen pencils between each use. And remember Rule One of the golden rules: Don't share.

"You don't share your toothbrush," Kaplan said. "Don't share skin products or brushes."


Makeup Safety Tips:

• Try labeling your makeup with the date you purchased it. You can use a silver or gold permanent marker for a more attractive result.
• If you use a makeup bag, clean it thoroughly on a regular basis. Place the empty bag in hot soapy water, wash and dry completely before using. If the exterior is not washable, spray the interior with antibacterial cleaner.
• Wipe down the outside your products with antibacterial spray, and keep a peroxide spray handy for sterilizing eye and lip pencils.
• Cut a sliver off your lipstick if anyone else uses it, and sharpen all pencils between uses.
• If you're storing your make-up on your dressing table or a similar open space, keep that surface clean by using bleach or a sanitizing spray once a week.
• Makeup kept in your handbag should be carried inside a clean, separate zip-up bag to protect it from contact with bacteria-laden tissues, keys and change.

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